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How to choose DTF film and powder (and why the cheap ones cost more)

Film and powder are consumables, so shops buy the cheapest. Then they spend a month chasing white halos, static and washed-out prints that were never the printer’s fault. Here is what each spec actually does.

6 min lesing · Oppdatert 2026-09-21
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  1. Start with 75 µm double-sided matte, hot/warm peel, from one supplier
  2. Fine (80–170 µm) TPU powder for detail, medium for heavy cotton
  3. Change one thing at a time and keep the roll’s label in your preset name

Film

  • Coating: double-sided matte holds ink better and does not stick to the platen; single-sided is cheaper and fine for sheets on flat feed.
  • Thickness: 75 µm is the sweet spot for desktop Epsons. 100 µm feeds better on long rolls but curls more after curing.
  • Peel: hot peel is fastest, cold peel gives the softest hand and best fine detail. Warm peel is the safe middle for mixed work.
  • Static: cheap film holds a charge that scatters powder into the margins. Anti-static coating is worth the 10 %.
  • Finish: matte film → matte transfer; glossy film → glossy. Match it to what your customers expect.

Powder

  • Material: TPU (polyurethane) is the standard — soft, stretchy, washes well. PES/co-polyester is cheaper and stiffer.
  • Grain: fine (80–170 µm) for text, halftones and thin lines; medium (170–250 µm) for solid fills on heavy fabrics. Coarse is for big, thick prints only.
  • Colour: white powder for everything; black powder only for dark designs on dark shirts (hides in the edges).
  • Melt point: low-temperature powder (≈ 100 °C) for polyester and nylon so the fabric does not scorch.

The cheap-consumables tax

A roll that saves $10 costs a day of troubleshooting. Cheap film changes coating batch to batch, so your ICC profile is right for half the roll. Cheap powder clumps in humidity and bridges gaps. Buy a known brand, buy the same one every time, and write the batch on the preset.

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