In short
- Install the kit: white in LC + LM, CMYK in place, film feed
- Run the channel test and load an ICC profile
- Print a purge strip daily and a nozzle check before every session
What you need
- DTF inks: CMYK + white pigment inks made for DTF (not sublimation, not regular Epson dye).
- White in the light cyan and light magenta tanks — two channels of white double the white flow and let the RIP print colour and white in one pass.
- PET film (hot or cold peel), TPU powder, a curing oven or heat press with a cover sheet.
- A RIP that drives the printer directly. On Mac that means ZoroPrint; on Windows also AcroRIP, CADlink or BlackBox.
- Optional but worth it: a white ink agitator and a roll feeder for the L1800.
The four mistakes
- Skipping the channel test. Kits differ; some put white in different tanks. Five minutes on film prevents the blue print.
- Printing on paper to “test”. White is invisible on paper and the film’s ink behaviour is different. Test on film, always.
- Letting the printer sit. White settles in days. Purge strip every 2–3 days, stir daily.
- Double colour management. Photoshop converts, RIP converts again, colours drift. Convert once, in the RIP.
Which model
- L805: A4, 216 mm wide, cheapest to run, perfect for logos, patches and small gang sheets.
- L1800: A3+, 329 mm wide, roll film with a feeder — the workhorse for gang sheets.
- Successors L8050 / L18050 and the ET-8550 / L8180 use a newer head; ZoroPrint drives them too (currently marked experimental until confirmed on hardware).