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Horizontal lines (banding) in DTF prints: the 6 causes in order

Fine horizontal lines across a DTF print look like one problem but have six different causes. Checking them in the wrong order wastes film. Here is the order that finds it fastest.

6 min read · Updated 2026-09-21
In short
  1. Nozzle check on film — clogged nozzles are 70 % of banding
  2. Switch bidirectional off; if the lines vanish, adjust the head gap
  3. Raise the pass count / resolution; then check the feed and the file

1. Clogged nozzles

Print the nozzle check from ZoroPrint (Maintenance → Nozzle check) on a strip of film. Any gap in the pattern is a missing nozzle and prints as a light line every pass. One or two cleanings usually fix it; white nozzles need the most care.

2. Bidirectional misalignment

In bidirectional mode the head prints going left and right; if the timing is off, every other pass lands slightly shifted and you see fine alternating lines. Turn Bidirectional off in the Printer tab. If the lines disappear, set a Head gap (bidi) of 1–3 and turn it back on.

3. Too few passes

At 720 × 720 dpi the head covers each row in fewer passes, so each nozzle’s error is visible. 1440 × 720 in Medium quality is the sweet spot for DTF; High (1440 × 1440) hides banding at the cost of speed.

4. Media feed

Regular, equally spaced dark or light lines the width of a head pass mean the film advanced too much or too little. On roll feeders, check the film is not dragging; on sheets, check the rollers are clean of powder.

5. Ink starvation

Lines that get worse toward the end of a long print are ink starvation: the tanks are low, a tube has air or the dampers are old. White is affected first.

6. The file

Gradients saved as 8-bit with heavy compression band before they reach the printer. Look at the original at 200 %; if the bands are in the file, the printer is innocent.

Print it right with ZoroPrint

Free for one printer. The channel test, preflight and white underbase from these guides are built in.

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